Lots of wiring! Tach signal on FV is old fashioned using connection to distributor side of coil. Race-Keeper connection shares connection with Longacre Digital Tach--soldered connection. Special Tach Signal cable has special resistor also has ground connection and plugs into Sensor location in HE box. Be sure to leave room for access for removal/insertion of SD Card.
Location of GPS Antenna here is on front "wing" so to be plainly visable--could have mounted under fiberglass as fiberglass does not shield the 1000-1200 MHz GPS signal. No interference with lower frequency 35-50 MHz SCCA Transponder mounted nearby. (Attached GPS antenna with double loop 3M fastener to allow removal--the base is magnetic but I had no flat, horizontal ferrous metal surface.)
Follow procedures from the Race-Keeper website and Installation Manual (online). Download the Comparo software. Configure the HE box using the software and SD Card. Also Zero the Accelerator using the software and the SD card. (Put in the address directly to get the file needed.) Don't forget to remove the setup files from the SD card if you plan on using it to record. Ready to record! (SDHC high capacity cards are acceptable in the Race-Keeper System--the higher the "Frequency Rating" the better. Go to the Sandisk website for more technical info on SD cards.)
You can set up to record whenever power is applied or whenever you reach a certain speed. The Power/Record controls on the box override the software configuration. Factory recommends using the set up with recording starting with speed (10-20 mph) and stopping with speed ( <5 mph for 120 seconds). Experiment with set up to find you like best. (Keep in mind that if you set up to record whenever power is applied, you will have to turn off recording manually with the red button on the box as if you turn off car's master switch before recording is ended you will lose some of the recording at the end and there could be other odd issues with the system's memory cache. If you set up for recording to stop when below a certain speed for a certain time--again--be sure to avoid turning off power before recording is stopped.)
A bit of excess wire as "standard" cable length is longer than required for "Formula Car Install" where box is right next to dash. Plan layout carefully--do not bend wires sharply--leave room for access to SD Card door and Power/Record Controls--be sure LED's are visable. Then tie wires down carefully. Removal of SD card is tough with just fingers--so here we provided a small set of tweezers.
Car is equipped with four (4) Race-Keeper "Bullet" cameras. Two side cams look forward at wheel/axle height to check exact track position at critical turn apex and exit locations. (Sometimes you just think you are using the whole track!) Side cams also provide good "peripheral" vision as they are aimed slightly outward. Forward cam mounted over driver's right shoulder, pointed slightly down to view hand position/movement.
Microphone is mounted over driver's left shoulder, tucked away from wind noise (hopefully) and very close to carburetor and exhaust. Main purpose of microphone on this install is to hear change in pitch of engine tone--a good determinant of throttle position. Can also be used for Driver's audio notes before/after sessions--although driver's voice can only be heard when engine is not running.
This car is equipped with a rear facing camera (left side roll hoop) hooked up to a special "reversing" LCD monitor for real time viewing. Helpful in traffic and determining if competitor threatens a pass at turn entry.
Camera wires are a bit fragile so route, pad and and tie down carefully. When mounting on the roll bar hoop, keep in mind that the mounting clamps is machined as a circle while many times the roll hoop is a bit oval from the bending process--some "machining" of the clamp and "fill" using tape may be in order for ideal fit. When clamping down on the bullet cam, remember that the camera is 0.74" diamerter (19mm) and the hole was machined for 0.75", however, the clamp was cut in half after machining so when both sides are in contact the opening is only 0.72" (0.030" less) so be careful not to overtorque/overtighten and squash the camera case --some gap between the halves of the mount is the proper setting. Be sure to leave a little extra wire for the side cams so side panels can be removed without having to dismount camera. On this setup, we used the "roof mount" molded fiberglass mount and mounted the camera using (2) 5" x 1/8" wire tires. The molded fiberglass mounts were attached to body panel using special two sided 3M tape VHB 5952 purchased from Amazon.com. (VHB ==Very High Bond. 5952 is conservatively rated for 2 pounds per sq. in. up. Be sure to place it carefully because once it's in contact, if is very difficult to move.) I used aluminum ferrule screws as a mechanical backup since I mounted on the side rather than on the roof.
Microphone is mounted over driver's left shoulder, tucked away from wind noise (hopefully) and very close to carburetor and exhaust. Main purpose of microphone on this install is to hear change in pitch of engine tone--a good determinant of throttle position. Can also be used for Driver's audio notes before/after sessions--although driver's voice can only be heard when engine is not running.
This car is equipped with a rear facing camera (left side roll hoop) hooked up to a special "reversing" LCD monitor for real time viewing. Helpful in traffic and determining if competitor threatens a pass at turn entry.
Camera wires are a bit fragile so route, pad and and tie down carefully. When mounting on the roll bar hoop, keep in mind that the mounting clamps is machined as a circle while many times the roll hoop is a bit oval from the bending process--some "machining" of the clamp and "fill" using tape may be in order for ideal fit. When clamping down on the bullet cam, remember that the camera is 0.74" diamerter (19mm) and the hole was machined for 0.75", however, the clamp was cut in half after machining so when both sides are in contact the opening is only 0.72" (0.030" less) so be careful not to overtorque/overtighten and squash the camera case --some gap between the halves of the mount is the proper setting. Be sure to leave a little extra wire for the side cams so side panels can be removed without having to dismount camera. On this setup, we used the "roof mount" molded fiberglass mount and mounted the camera using (2) 5" x 1/8" wire tires. The molded fiberglass mounts were attached to body panel using special two sided 3M tape VHB 5952 purchased from Amazon.com. (VHB ==Very High Bond. 5952 is conservatively rated for 2 pounds per sq. in. up. Be sure to place it carefully because once it's in contact, if is very difficult to move.) I used aluminum ferrule screws as a mechanical backup since I mounted on the side rather than on the roof.
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