Link to Dropbox .sto file
RFC Road Q BASE setup 2016S1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ri7ryrqcm0bhrmm/RFC2016S1BaseRoad.sto?dl=0
iRacing.com RFC2016S1BaseRoad for IndyCar DW12
(Formatted for PC--see end of article for settings formatted for mobile devices)
FRONT: REAR:
Cold pressure: 25.0 psi Cold pressure: 23.0 psi
FRONT AERO: REAR AERO:
FRONT AERO: REAR AERO:
Wing angle: 28.50 deg Wing angle: 46.0 deg
Wing wicker: 1" full span Wing wicker: 1/2" full span
Upper flap angle: 11.5 deg End plate wicker: 3/8"
Upper flap wicker: 1/4" Beam wicker: 1"
UNDERSIDE AERO: AERO CALCULATOR:
Wing wicker: 1" full span Wing wicker: 1/2" full span
Upper flap angle: 11.5 deg End plate wicker: 3/8"
Upper flap wicker: 1/4" Beam wicker: 1"
UNDERSIDE AERO: AERO CALCULATOR:
Diffuser exit wicker: 3/4"
(sealed) Front RH at speed: 0.500"
Diffuser add-ons: Sidewall ON/Strakes ON Rear RH at speed: 0.500"
Radiator inlet: 2/3 closed EXT side Front downforce: 40.93%
Diffuser add-ons: Sidewall ON/Strakes ON Rear RH at speed: 0.500"
Radiator inlet: 2/3 closed EXT side Front downforce: 40.93%
Downforce to drag: 3.040:1
GENERAL:
Wheelbase: 118" Steering
offset: +0 deg
Brake pressure: Medium Ballast forward: -6"
Brake pressure bias: 52.0% Nose weight: 44.7%
Steering pinion: 8 tooth Cross weight: -0 lbs to the left front
Brake pressure: Medium Ballast forward: -6"
Brake pressure bias: 52.0% Nose weight: 44.7%
Steering pinion: 8 tooth Cross weight: -0 lbs to the left front
FRONT: REAR:
Corner weight: 404 lbs (44.7%
Front) Corner
weight: 499 lbs
Ride height: 1.114 in Ride height: 1.596 in
Pushrod length: 25.545" Pushrod length: 21.089"
Spring rate: 1750 lbs/in Spring rate: 650 lbs/in
Camber: -2.13 deg Camber: -1.60 deg
Caster: +7.36 deg NA
Toe-in: -2/32" Toe-in: +5/32"
Ride height: 1.114 in Ride height: 1.596 in
Pushrod length: 25.545" Pushrod length: 21.089"
Spring rate: 1750 lbs/in Spring rate: 650 lbs/in
Camber: -2.13 deg Camber: -1.60 deg
Caster: +7.36 deg NA
Toe-in: -2/32" Toe-in: +5/32"
FRONT: REAR:
3rd spring: Stiff 3rd
spring: Stiff
3rd spring gap: 0.338 in 3rd spring gap: 0.321 in
ARB diameter: Small ARB diameter: Large
ARB blades: Steel
ARB blades: 3 ARB blades: 2
ARB Drop-link position: Wide (Slow) ARB drop-link position: Wide (Slow)
ARB preload: 0.0 ft-lbs ARB preload: 0.1 ft-lbs
3rd spring gap: 0.338 in 3rd spring gap: 0.321 in
ARB diameter: Small ARB diameter: Large
ARB blades: Steel
ARB blades: 3 ARB blades: 2
ARB Drop-link position: Wide (Slow) ARB drop-link position: Wide (Slow)
ARB preload: 0.0 ft-lbs ARB preload: 0.1 ft-lbs
Fuel level: 4.5 gal Weight
jacker: 0
FRONT DAMPER: REAR DAMPER:
Low speed comp: -7 clicks Low
speed comp: -19 clicks
High speed comp: -21 clicks High speed comp: -23 clicks
Low speed rebound: -7 clicks Low speed rebound: -23 clicks
High speed rebound: -14 clicks High speed rebound: -20 clicks
High speed comp: -21 clicks High speed comp: -23 clicks
Low speed rebound: -7 clicks Low speed rebound: -23 clicks
High speed rebound: -14 clicks High speed rebound: -20 clicks
ENGINE:
Engine map setting: 7 (MAP) (Less sensitive)
Turbo boost pressure: Push to Pass 10x/race
Turbo boost pressure: Push to Pass 10x/race
GEARBOX: Final drive:
17/59
First gear: 16/34 109.3 mph Second gear: 17/31 127.4 mph
Third gear: 19/31 142.4 mph Fourth gear: 19/28 157.6 mph
Fifth gear: 18/25 167.3 mph Sixth gear: 20/26 178.7 mph
DIFFERENTIAL:
Third gear: 19/31 142.4 mph Fourth gear: 19/28 157.6 mph
Fifth gear: 18/25 167.3 mph Sixth gear: 20/26 178.7 mph
DIFFERENTIAL:
Clutch plates: 4 Preload:
-50 ft-lbs
Ramp angles: 45 coast/30 power
Ramp angles: 45 coast/30 power
Just like for ovals, building a competitive setup for road
courses requires trial and error testing.
While one could start from scratch for each track, each season, it is
often time efficient to build on already existing setups.
This article shares a “Base” setup tested for iRacing’s
2016S1 “Build”. (Sometimes iRacing makes
changes to chassis stiffness and tire grip/slip angle coefficients that may
require minor changes to the base in the future.)
This “Base” setup is designed for a “balanced” car—neither “tight=under-steery”
or “loose=over-steery”. For each track,
this is a starting point and modifications and adjustments need to be made and
tested for optimal performance.
First, run the “Base” set for 10 laps and get a baseline set of lap times. (You will need to increase fuel level to 7 or 8 gallons temporarily.) Note the top speed. (If you hit the rev limiter in 6th gear, then
adjust it to a higher mph setting and determine the top speed before ending the
first stage testing.) Also note the gears used entering and exiting each
corner.
Before proceeding further—view Youtube videos of hot laps at
the track run by other drivers. Note the top speed and the gears used entering
and exiting each corner. Note the driving lines taken and braking points if
possible. Check iRacing results and World Records (Only during the last 12 months) and set a “target lap time” for certain track temperature.
IMPORTANT TERM: A Balanced Race Car is one where the front
and the rear tires are close to the same temperature and wear---this is
the goal. With the correct driving line, you will “feel” this with the car not
being “generally” loose or tight. But, on road courses, in most cases a
compromise is required—some corners the car may seem loose while in others it
may seem tight.
IMPORTANT TERM: Best Camber for Racing Grip is the setting
that produces almost equal tire wear from left to right of each tire. (This may
not be the best setting for qualifying, but for racing it produces the setting
that will provide the best lap times for long runs.) On road courses, because
of necessary and desirable negative camber, generally the temperature and wear
on the outside edges will be lower.
The first adjustment will be to setup the gearbox so that desired
top speed is achieved in 6th gear with Max Speed Possible (hitting
the rev limiter—this is 178.7 mph in the Base Set) approximately 5-6 mph higher
than the desired top speed. (This allows for the draft.) Then set 5th
gear Max Speed Possible at 93-94% of 6th gear; 4th gear
Max Speed Possible at 92-94% of 5th gear; 3rd gear Max
Speed Possible at 90-93% of 4th gear; 2rd gear Max Speed
Possible at 87-90% of 3rd gear; and 1st gear Max Speed Possible at
85-87% of 2nd gear.
Run 10 laps to verify you are reaching the desired top
speed. If you are not hitting the rev limiter and not reaching the desired top
speed, then you must reduce aerodynamic drag.
Reduce the front and rear wings as necessary to maintain a 40-42% Front
Downforce % and a Balanced Race Car tire condition as well as the desired
handling in the fastest corner and corner/s leading to the longest straight.
Note the gears used entering and exiting the corners and make adjustments as
necessary. (The main issue is that you usually would prefer to be upshifting
after the track out point on corner exit. Make minor changes to gearing—one step
only.) (This is a different procedure than the typical concept of choosing downforce to improve cornering---the idea is that desired top speed is limited by the gearing and aero settings you choose.)
Finding the right “combination” of wing angle/s, wicker
dimensions takes a bit of trial and error using the Aero Calculator as a
guide. Choose the combination giving the
highest Downforce to Drag ratio. Here is where you may choose to add aero
downforce to improve handling and lap times, even though it may reduce your top
speed.
Once a Balanced Race Car and desired top speed is achieved
by adjusting wings, run another 10 laps to establish a new baseline set of lap
times. Note the presence of tight or loose conditions.
Before proceeding further, carefully consider the choice of
spring rates. The “Base” setup produces certain handling characteristics that
can be changed simply by changing spring rates. Increasing the front spring
rates will make the car tighter. (Drivers who like to brake later may desire
this.) Decreasing the front spring rates will make the car more loose.
Increasing the rear spring rates will make the car more loose. (Drivers who
like to “steer with throttle may desire this.) Decreasing rear spring rates
will make the car tighter. (It is not recommended going much lower than 650
pounds for the rear springs that are used in the “Base” setup.) If you change
springs, reset ride height back to the “Base” settings and run a few test laps
to insure the car is a Balanced Race Car. Adjust aero as needed.
There is no "magic" formula for the correct tire pressure. Best advice is to experiment at each track with increasing and decreasing tire pressure from the base. Generally, tracks with fast sweeping corners call for higher pressure. And, tracks with slow chicanes and hairpins call for lower pressure.
There is no "magic" formula for the correct tire pressure. Best advice is to experiment at each track with increasing and decreasing tire pressure from the base. Generally, tracks with fast sweeping corners call for higher pressure. And, tracks with slow chicanes and hairpins call for lower pressure.
Before making any further adjustments, using ALT L, and some
form of telemetry software analysis, note the ride heights on all four
corners. If the car is hitting the track
during corners, then ride height needs to be increased. Generally, at corner
entry, the optimum ride front height under heavy braking would be not be much
more than 0.2 inches—often you will desire it to be near zero. On the longer straights for maximum speed, front
ride height should be no lower than 0.6 inches and it is generally good for the
rear ride height to be 0.3 inches higher in the rear than the front. However,
one may choose to increase downforce (and drag) by increasing “rake”—raising the
rear height above this 0.3 inch figure and running a front ride height on the
straights that is less than 0.6 inches which will also increase downforce.
Note that on the DW12 road course setup—you have a choice of
“3rd Spring Gap”. The 3rd spring comes into play when
both sides (L and R) of the car are lowered by aero downforce, braking or
acceleration. If the car is running too low at maximum speed or during braking,
one can reduce this 3rd Spring Gap—essentially causing the 3rd
spring to supplement/add to the spring rate of the conventional springs. Retest
telemetry after making this change.
After adjusting ride height/s, Run another 10 laps and
compare lap times and handling. Note tire wear and temps. On particularly fast
tracks, you may gain speed by reducing the rear toe . This benefit will be at the
expense of a car that is looser when applying power in a corner.
You will now start making adjustments to remedy the handling
issues you observe without adjusting wings. You will focus on improving the
handling in specific corners as well as improving tire wear/temps.
First, adjust front and rear camber to optimum. Keep in mind
the principle of “Camber Thrust” where tires on the outside of the curve tend
to produce more lateral grip with a small amount of negative camber but produce
less on the inside of the curve. (See figure below.) Keep in mind that "A Arm" suspensions usually generate more negative camber as they are compressed. Generally, tire temps should be about 5%
cooler on the outside. Next, choose the desired Caster. Higher Caster setting
will make the car more loose in mid corner. More front ARB will give more rear traction and make the car tighter. Less rear ARB will give more rear grip and make the car tighter. Finally, choose the optimum damper
settings. Generally, reducing high speed compression and rebound makes the car
better able to go over curbs. Reducing low speed rebound settings will give
that corner more relative grip; increasing compression settings will give that
corner less grip. Keep in mind that changes to grip from damper setting are “dynamic”
or momentary—they simply control/affect the speed that weight/cornering load is
transferred.
The figure above gives a bit of insight about the high and low speed damper settings.The low speed settings affect the damper when moving at 1-2 inches per second. The high speed settings affect the damper when moving faster than that. The rate of damping force increase relative to speed is different for high speed movement vs. low speed. Rebound damping is higher than compression damping because the spring is acting to accelerate the damper's movement.
Continue running 5-10 laps “Stints” after each change. Be careful that you do not confuse the improvement in lap times due to your improved driving with improvement caused by adjustments you make to the car. Often it is wise to reverse the change and test to see if lap times get worse when the change is reversed. Let your lap times determine the best setup. Be aware that changes can improve performance in one corner while making performance in another corner worse.
Road course setups do not have Qualifying Boost. Instead, they provide 10 Push to Pass Boosts per race. When comparing lap times be aware of Push to Pass Boosts used. Often during Official Practice sessions, other drivers will use several Push to Pass Boosts to get an "impressive" but unrealistic lap time. Push to Pass is NOT available during Road course qualifying. Another "game" some drivers use is to report their "optimal" lap times on the forum. "I am reaching 1:xx.xx)" while their best actual lap was 1 second or more slower.
For qualifying, generally, set fuel fuel to 4 or 4.5 gallons. (Test this and set so you have only 0.2 gallons at the end of qualifying session.) For the RACE setup, increase fuel to 18.5 gallons, and change the radiator opening to 1/3 blocked. Since the car is heavier,
adjust the ride heights to compensate.
Colder temps generally allow less wing. Hotter temps
generally require more wing (downforce). You may want a higher downforce to make the car more stable as tires wear. Generally dropping tire pressure slightly will help on a hot track. Run a full fuel stint to test. These rules of thumb are not always the case—it depends
on the track.
Often, it will require 6 to 8 different setups to cover the
range of temperatures for qualifying and racing. Cold (70-85F track) Medium (85-95F track) Hot (95-105 track) and ExtraHot (105F+) For 2 lap qualifying generally you only need Cold and Hot.
This is by no means a complete instruction. There are other
adjustments that can be made (like front brake bias, differential settings and ballast forward) and
vehicle dynamics are complicated. Some
drivers may prefer a car that is more loose than a Balanced Race Car. These
“more advanced” settings should be attempted to further optimize your lap times
but will require additional time consuming testing. And, remember that driving
lines and throttle modulation are part of how best lap times are achieved.
Note 1: On courses with sharp and slow turns like Circuit of the America's, the base setup may introduce a bit of mid-corner over-steer or looseness. This is primarily caused by the rear tires being overtaxed by trail braking. A "drive-around" is to do less trail braking--brake in a straight line and release at turn in or" The "setup" fix is more front brake bias and a higher "Coast" differential setting.
In addition to my engineering and racing background as well as 30 years of interest/study in the field of vehicle dynamics, a great deal of the knowledge and experience behind the base setup and this guide came from the excellent professional level coaching I received from nearly a year working with Wyatt Gooden. He continues to evaluate setups I build for Team RFC and almost always betters iRacing World Record laps times when doing so. http://www.wyattgooden.com/
Note 1: On courses with sharp and slow turns like Circuit of the America's, the base setup may introduce a bit of mid-corner over-steer or looseness. This is primarily caused by the rear tires being overtaxed by trail braking. A "drive-around" is to do less trail braking--brake in a straight line and release at turn in or" The "setup" fix is more front brake bias and a higher "Coast" differential setting.
In addition to my engineering and racing background as well as 30 years of interest/study in the field of vehicle dynamics, a great deal of the knowledge and experience behind the base setup and this guide came from the excellent professional level coaching I received from nearly a year working with Wyatt Gooden. He continues to evaluate setups I build for Team RFC and almost always betters iRacing World Record laps times when doing so. http://www.wyattgooden.com/
Here are the setting in a format better suited to mobile devices.
RIGHT
FRONT: LEFT FRONT:
Cold pressure: 25.0 psi
RIGHT
REAR: LEFT REAR:
Cold pressure: 23.0 psi
FRONT
AERO:
Wing angle: 28.50 deg
Wing wicker: 1" full span
Upper flap angle: 11.5 deg
Upper flap wicker: 1/4"
Wing wicker: 1" full span
Upper flap angle: 11.5 deg
Upper flap wicker: 1/4"
UNDERSIDE
AERO:
Diffuser exit wicker: 3/4" (sealed)
Diffuser add-ons: Sidewall ON/Strakes ON
Diffuser add-ons: Sidewall ON/Strakes ON
Radiator inlet: 2/3 closed EXT side
REAR
AERO:
Wing angle: 46.0 deg
Wing wicker: 1/2" full span
End plate wicker: 3/8"
Beam wicker: 1"
Wing wicker: 1/2" full span
End plate wicker: 3/8"
Beam wicker: 1"
AERO CALCULATOR:
Front RH at speed: 0.500"
Rear RH at speed: 0.500"
Front downforce: 40.93%
Downforce to drag: 3.040:1
Rear RH at speed: 0.500"
Front downforce: 40.93%
Downforce to drag: 3.040:1
GENERAL:
Wheelbase: 118"
Brake pressure: Medium
Brake pressure bias: 52.0%
Steering pinion: 8 tooth
Steering offset: +0 deg
Ballast forward: -6"
Nose weight: 44.7%
Cross weight: -0 lbs to the left front
Brake pressure: Medium
Brake pressure bias: 52.0%
Steering pinion: 8 tooth
Steering offset: +0 deg
Ballast forward: -6"
Nose weight: 44.7%
Cross weight: -0 lbs to the left front
LEFT
& RIGHT FRONT:
Corner weight: 404 lbs
Ride height: 1.114 in
Pushrod length: 25.545"
Spring rate: 1750 lbs/in
Camber: -2.13 deg
Caster: +7.36 deg
Toe-in: -2/32"
Ride height: 1.114 in
Pushrod length: 25.545"
Spring rate: 1750 lbs/in
Camber: -2.13 deg
Caster: +7.36 deg
Toe-in: -2/32"
LEFT
& RIGHT REAR:
Corner weight: 499 lbs
Ride height: 1.596 in
Pushrod length: 21.089"
Spring rate: 650 lbs/in
Camber: -1.60 deg
Toe-in: +5/32"
Ride height: 1.596 in
Pushrod length: 21.089"
Spring rate: 650 lbs/in
Camber: -1.60 deg
Toe-in: +5/32"
FRONT:
3rd spring: Stiff
3rd spring gap: 0.338 in
Bar diameter: Small
Bar blades: Steel
Bar blade position: 3
Drop-link position: Wide (Slow)
ARB preload: 0.0 ft-lbs
3rd spring gap: 0.338 in
Bar diameter: Small
Bar blades: Steel
Bar blade position: 3
Drop-link position: Wide (Slow)
ARB preload: 0.0 ft-lbs
REAR:
Fuel level: 4.5 gal
3rd spring: Stiff
3rd spring gap: 0.321 in
Weight jacker: 0
3rd spring: Stiff
3rd spring gap: 0.321 in
Weight jacker: 0
REAR
ARB:
ARB diameter: Large
ARB drop-link position: Wide (Slow)
ARB blades: 2
ARB preload: 0.1 ft-lbs
ARB drop-link position: Wide (Slow)
ARB blades: 2
ARB preload: 0.1 ft-lbs
LEFT/RIGHT
FRONT DAMPER:
Low speed comp: -7 clicks
High speed comp: -21 clicks
Low speed rebound: -7 clicks
High speed rebound: -14 clicks
High speed comp: -21 clicks
Low speed rebound: -7 clicks
High speed rebound: -14 clicks
LEFT/RIGHT
REAR DAMPER:
Low speed comp: -19 clicks
High speed comp: -23 clicks
Low speed rebound: -23 clicks
High speed rebound: -20 clicks
High speed comp: -23 clicks
Low speed rebound: -23 clicks
High speed rebound: -20 clicks
ENGINE:
Engine map setting: 7 (MAP)
Turbo boost pressure: Push to Pass limited to 10 times per race.
Turbo boost pressure: Push to Pass limited to 10 times per race.
GEARBOX:
First gear: 16/34
109.3 mph
Second gear: 17/31
127.4 mph
Third gear: 19/31
142.4 mph
Fourth gear: 19/28
157.6 mph
Fifth gear: 18/25
167.3 mph
Sixth gear: 20/26
178.7 mph
Final drive: 17/59
109.3 mph
Second gear: 17/31
127.4 mph
Third gear: 19/31
142.4 mph
Fourth gear: 19/28
157.6 mph
Fifth gear: 18/25
167.3 mph
Sixth gear: 20/26
178.7 mph
Final drive: 17/59
DIFFERENTIAL
(RC only):
Clutch plates: 4
Preload: -50 ft-lbs
Ramp angles: 45 coast/30 power
Preload: -50 ft-lbs
Ramp angles: 45 coast/30 power
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